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Editor'S Choice - 2020

Henna and Basma

It is difficult to imagine a woman who at least once has not subjected her hair to revolutionary changes with the help of paint. Some for this purpose use the most contrasting resistant dyes, others experiment with tinted shampoos and tonics, while others prefer exclusively natural products without chemicals. The last group includes henna and basma.

How is basma different from henna?

Henna and basma, being dyes of plant origin, differ from each other not only in that the first is obtained from the leaves of lavsonia, and the second - indigophera. They are not identical in the spectrum of effects exerted on the scalp and hair, in time of use, in the color of dyed hair. In addition, henna is an independent dye, but basma can be used only in tandem with lavsan powder, if the purpose of staining is not blue-green curls.

For basma to give a black color to her hair, she needs a catalyst in the form of henna.

Features of the application of henna:

  • Hypoallergenic. Does not cause peeling, irritation, itching and stains;
  • Strengthens hair follicles, helps accelerate hair growth, normalizes blood circulation, and prevents hair loss;
  • “Solves” hair scales, making curls smooth and shiny, facilitates combing;
  • Reduces brittleness and percentage of split ends;
  • It acts on the skin as an antiseptic, improving its condition in case of problems with dandruff and increased oily hair.

Basma application features:

  • It has a strengthening effect on the hair follicles, reduces hair loss;
  • Creates a protective film on each hair, protecting it from the harmful effects of external factors: UV rays, wind, salt water;
  • It fights against dandruff, normalizes the sebaceous glands;
  • Increases the density of hair, makes the hair more magnificent and voluminous;
  • Hair coloring gives a lasting effect, even on gray hair;
  • The main difference from henna is that it can hardly be used without other dyes;
  • It has no contraindications.

It is important to follow the instructions for staining with henna and basma:

  • Use only natural dye without chemicals;
  • Care for hair after dyeing. Plant dyes themselves give a good leaving effect, but the hair needs additional hydration, nutrition and protection. You can get their curls only from the usual means: masks, balms, serums, vitamins;
  • Use henna no more than once every 3-4 weeks. There is a risk that it will dry the hair, make it brittle and unstable to harmful factors;
  • Apply henna or basma on clean, damp hair washed with shampoo. But after staining, it is better to refuse to use soap products. The coloring matter strengthens in the structure of the hair only for 2-3 days.


Iranian henna

In its pure form, it gives a “classic” copper-red tint, but when other components are added, the color can vary from light to dark copper. It also has a general strengthening effect on the hair, stimulates growth, gives shine, prevents brittleness and other problems. It has a slightly pungent smell and coarse grinding.


The color spectrum is more diverse and allows you to choose a shade as close as possible to the natural color of the hair. Brown henna is considered the highest quality. Due to the fine grinding, it is easily bred, lays well, and is easily washed off. Indian henna acts quickly, has a pleasant smell and lasting effect.


A substance that gives more restrained and noble shades. It differs from Indian and Iranian in that to achieve the result you need to keep it on your hair a little longer.


Not a one-component substance. The composition also includes clove and cocoa butter, some chemical elements. Black henna is no more dangerous than persistent artificial dyes, but is no longer 100% natural and harmless. You can replace the finished black henna with a homemade composition. To do this, you need to take two shares of basma for one henna, add ground cloves, black coffee or strong tea to them.


Colorless or transparent henna does not change the color of curls, but has an almost identical spectrum of actions. I use it as a mask or natural shampoo for hair, giving hair strength, shine and beauty. There are many recipes for multi-component hair masks with colorless powder. For example, with lemon juice, honey, yolk, oils, vitamins.


Ready to use product. Liquid lavsonia has a creamy consistency, convenient for applying to curls, is sold in a sachet in the finished form, does not have artificial components in the composition.

Basma, unlike henna, is only one color.

What's better?

The issue is controversial and not even entirely correct. Both plant dyes have their own advantages and disadvantages, but the final choice of product depends on the initial and desired hair color. Natural henna and basma give hair strengthening, density, health, if used correctly. Violating the recommendations for use, you can harm your hair, despite the fact that the dyes themselves are environmentally friendly and safe. The powder of lavsonia and indigophera have a negative effect on curls that were subject to perm. They straighten faster, become harder and drier.

Also at risk are owners of too dry and damaged hair. Such curls in their pure form will make dyes even drier, brittle and prone to damage. However, this does not mean that the owners of dry hair are doomed to use only artificial paints. To use henna on capricious hair, you need to choose the right base on which the mixture will be prepared. Oil and dairy bases are best suited: olive or burdock oil, whey, kefir, fat cream. Basma is bred exclusively by hot water.

The disadvantages include the duration of the staining procedure. The exposure time can last no more than 15 minutes, but the very application of the mixture on the curls takes longer than applying the creamy consistency of artificial dyes. Wash off the plant mixture is also harder. Failure to comply with the proportions, as well as the use of henna or basma on dyed hair, can lead to unpredictable results. Hair often acquires unnatural shades of blue, pink, cherry, bluish spectrum, and washing them off can be very difficult.

Who can use?

Plant dyes - a universal product. They are hypoallergenic, harmless and gently affect the structure of the hair. Paint based on henna and basma can be used at any age, does not harm in the presence of diseases and during pregnancy. Henna and basma can be painted with any initial hair color, you just need to correctly calculate the proportions and time. The light brown color is more susceptible, therefore, the shade on it will appear brighter and faster, for black it will take more patience and time, for brown, the colors of Indian and Turkish henna are suitable, both in pure and combined form. Black color for dark hair, which emphasizes their beauty, can be obtained without adding basma. It is enough to use ready-made henna with cocoa butter and cloves.

For gray curls special recommendations are provided. For starters, it is better to dye the gray hair with a light shade of henna, and then re-coat with a mixture of henna and basma, otherwise there is a risk of getting too bright, unnatural and very persistent shade. It is also recommended to add a spoonful of base oil, such as olive, to the mixture for dry hair. This will protect them from dryness and brittleness and provide additional care.

What will happen if you mix them?

The combination - henna plus basma significantly expands the palette of colors for hair coloring. Depending on the proportions, the red henna pigment will be more or less noticeable, and the black basma will give a light blond or saturated dark color. You can mix colors in several ways:


It involves the phased application of henna, then basma. The procedure begins with the preparation of hair. They need to be washed with shampoo, blotted with a towel, slightly dried in a natural way. Do not use a hair dryer, it can dry out the strands. While the hair is dry, dilute the henna in the right proportions in a bowl and mix well. Apply the resulting warm mixture to the hair, starting from the back of the head and carefully distributing from root to tip with a comb and a special flat brush. You can massage with gloves on. Then you need to wrap your head in polyethylene and a towel or put on a hat, withstand the time required for dyeing in the desired color. Thoroughly rinse the scalp and curls with water of a comfortable temperature. You can use hair balm. When the dyed hair is dry, repeat the procedure using a new mixture.


Its essence is in coloring hair with a mixture of henna and basma. To prepare the paint, both powders are bred in different bowls according to the rules that are prescribed for each of them on the package. When the mixture has cooled to a temperature of 40 degrees, they must be thoroughly mixed and put in a bowl of warm water so that the total mass does not cool down in the process. You should also start from the back of the head, dividing the strands along the parting and moving from the roots to the tips. After the time dictated by the desired result, the mixture can be washed off the hair, ringlets treated with rinse conditioner.

How to mix?

The correct ratio of dyes is the key to a good result. In order not to get into an unpleasant situation when the resulting color is very far from expected, it is important to calculate the proportions and time in advance. For convenience and accuracy, there is a special table of the proportions and time depending on the original hair color and the expected results. The technology for preparing the mixture is quite simple. To obtain paint from henna and basma, you must:

  • Determine the initial color of the curls from a special table. You can find it on the packaging with powder or on the Internet;
  • Calculate the right amount of grams of dry powder based on the length of the hair. For example, 30-50 g of one component is enough for short curls, and the length to the shoulders requires 130-150 g of each. The right amount can also be calculated according to the recommendations on the package;
  • Based on the desired result, measure by grams of the substance in powder;
  • Dilute individual containers of henna and basma, following the instructions. It is important to consider that henna loses its properties if it is diluted with hot water, and basma, on the contrary, dissolves only at a temperature of 80-90 degrees. Mix gruel after cooling to a comfortable temperature;
  • The resulting mixture can be mixed again when it is slightly infused, and applied to the hair with a special flat brush.

But, even knowing the sequence of actions, correctly dyeing your hair yourself is not as easy as it seems at first glance. It is important to follow some helpful guidelines:

  • Preparation and mixing of paints should take place in porcelain dishes using wooden spoons or special brushes. Metal can oxidize, and plastic, when interacting with hot water, releases harmful substances, which will not benefit the hair;
  • The fresher the powder, the better it will set, so when buying, it is important to pay attention to the date of manufacture. When diluting dry matter immediately before staining, you also need to consider that the fresher the mixture, the better it will work;
  • If some ingredients need to be added warm, they should be heated in a water bath;
  • Staining time is very important. You must carefully select the appropriate number of minutes or hours, based on the recommendations in the nameplate. In order not to be mistaken, a preliminary color test should be performed on an inconspicuous lock of hair;
  • Before staining, be sure to protect the skin of the forehead, ears, neck and hands with gloves, oily baby cream and clothing with a high neck and closed shoulders. You also need to cover the floors in the work area with oilcloth or newspapers;
  • The greenhouse effect will enhance the release of dye from the substance into curls. It is not necessary to put a plastic cap on henna, but basma is needed;
  • Rinse off the remaining powder from the hair for a long time and thoroughly, rinsing the locks under running water. If this is not done, the small spools will have to be combed out with a comb after the hair has dried;
  • It is worth refraining from shampooing your head for the first two to three days. At this time, the pigment only manifests itself. There may be a deceptive feeling that it turned out to be too bright, and after using the shampoo the color will not be intense enough;
  • The optimal result appears on the hair after the first wash. If an important celebration or meeting is planned, it is very important to consider this feature;
  • If the result is still not satisfactory, it is worth treating the dyed curls with warm coconut or olive oil, wrap it with a film and warm it with a towel. After a few hours, rinse thoroughly with shampoo.

Ways to use

Recipes for preparing paint from plant components at home are very diverse. A suitable composition is selected in accordance with the type and color of hair. For light types, it is recommended to use mixtures with more henna than basma. For brown-haired women and dark blond, 1: 1 proportions are suitable, for brunettes it is better to focus on the predominance of basma. In addition to basma and henna, home-made paints may contain other components:

  • Cahors or cranberry juice. When added to henna they give a shade of "mahogany";
  • Ground coffee. For the chocolate color of the hair, you need to dilute the henna with warm boiled coffee;
  • Beetroot juice. Freshly squeezed when added to the mixture gives noble shades of burgundy. The same effect can be achieved by using very thick tea leaves, elderberry juice, hibiscus;
  • Chamomile. Coloring the hair with a mixture of powder of leaves of lavsonia and carefully chopped chamomile gives curls a warm, honey-golden color. A similar color can be obtained by replacing dry chamomile with turmeric.
  • Saffron. Interesting honey overflows are given by paint, in which saffron flower was added. The powder should be boiled for two minutes, add rhubarb and mix in the mixture. No need to add too much, just type it on the tip of the knife;
  • Ground cloves. Strengthens black and deep chestnut pigment in a mixture of basma and henna, makes the color rich and multifaceted. Carnations are coffee, ground walnuts, black tea;
  • Cocoa. If the purpose of coloring is a natural chestnut color with a soft brown tint, then cocoa powder should be used. He copes with this task perfectly, giving the hair a natural beauty and an interesting play of color;
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  • Salt. The addition of salt helps to reveal all its possibilities to the coloring matter. It enhances the release of pigment when combining the powder with a liquid, which results in a deep, rich chestnut or dark shade. Also, sea salt additionally strengthens the hair follicles and cares for the health of the scalp;
  • Burr oil. Useful for dry and weak hair as part of a mask with henna. In this case, you can use both ordinary and colorless henna.Mask with burdock oil will prevent hair loss, make hair more thick and well-groomed, smooth, strong and elastic;
  • Kefir. Masks with henna on kefir with regular use provide hair strengthening and activation of their growth, give them a healthy look, shine and volume;
  • Egg. Mask from colorless henna with the addition of egg yolk is used for density and active hair growth. For the best effect, you can add vitamins and essential oils to it. The most universal are retinol, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, base oils of olive, castor oil, apricot, avocado, jojoba, macadamia essential oil;
  • Honey. Masks with natural honey perfectly restore, nourish and strengthen damaged curls. To make the mixture as useful as possible, it is better to breed henna not with water, but with heated whey. The more liquid honey is, the easier it will be to wash it from the hair.

There are other recipes for different types of problems or normal hair. It’s not difficult to pick them up, the main thing is to know the features of your hair and have a specific goal.

After regular paint

An urgent question for those who have decided to use natural dyes for transformation is whether henna and basma can be applied to already dyed hair. Doing this is highly discouraged. The result can be unpredictable, and overlapping an ugly color will be very difficult. Secondary dyeing of clarified curls is especially problematic. On them henna and basma can appear in violet, blue and green shades.

The reverse process is also impossible. No artificial dye can completely block the color of hair dyed with henna or basma. Red or black pigment will “shine through” the new color, which will make it heterogeneous, and the hairdo will be sloppy in appearance. Attempts to discolor the hair will lead to the appearance of blue-gray, emerald and dirty colors.

How much to keep?

Time is one of the decisive factors in hair coloring. The final result directly depends on how much the coloring mixture affected the curls. Using henna and basma, it is worthwhile to be guided by special tables in which colors and the recommended coloring time are entered. If the hair belongs to a blond blonde, it will take from 1 to 20 minutes to change the color, depending on the desired result. Natural blondes will need 5-25 minutes for a lasting effect. Dark blond takes 8-10 or 25-35 minutes. Light brown must take from 10 to 45 minutes, dark - up to an hour and a half. You can keep the mixture on brown and black hair for up to 2 hours, on gray hair - up to 3. The countdown starts from the moment the hair is completely covered with the mixture and wrapped in polyethylene.

How often can i use?

Despite the fact that henna and basma have a cosmetic and therapeutic effect, you should not dye your hair every week. The recommended frequency of use is to dye your hair once every 4 weeks, then the result will be high-quality, beautiful and lasting. More frequent use of henna can lead to negative consequences. Curls will become dry and brittle, it will be impossible to repaint them in a different color. The hairstyle will increase in volume and begin to look more magnificent, but not at all due to the fact that the hair will grow denser. Frequent staining with henna “splits” the keratin scales of the hairs, making them stick out in all directions, due to this, the hair becomes fluffy and voluminous. To repair such damage will be very difficult, therefore, in the use of henna and basma, you must observe the measure.


Natural cosmetics from plant components, which is easy and convenient to prepare at home, is very popular among the fair sex. Henna and Basma, including earned praise. Mostly, they value naturalness, benefits for hair, and richness of shades. Eco-friendly natural dyes are not difficult to prepare at home, using the recipe to create any desired shade. Also, among the positive aspects, the availability of ingredients necessary for coloring hair with henna and basma is noted. The cosmetic properties of colorless henna deserve special attention. It is used not only in hair masks, but also in facial skin care.

The disadvantages of plant dyes include the difficulty of applying the mixture to the hair, especially long ones and washing it off after the procedure. In the hair, often there are spools of leaves that are difficult to wash under running water and require additional effort. Also negative is the fact that henna dries strands and can worsen the condition of the hair. Beginners are worried that predicting what color the hair will get is more difficult than using chemical dyes.

How to dye your hair with henna and basma at home - in the next video.

Watch the video: How To Dye Hair with Henna And Indigo My Henna Hair (February 2020).


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